Early apples are among the sweetest.(Knight Ridder Newspapers)

The first apples of the year are mature when the sun is high and the days are hot. These apples are some of the sweetest and most delicate of the year but often are overlooked because autumn leaves have yet to fall. Today we explore apples in a savory salad.

Where did apples come from? Apples are believed to have originated in the Caucasus Mountains of southeastern Europe. When the first English settlers came to North America, they brought with them their remedy against homesickness: the beloved apple.

How many varieties? There are more than 7,500 varieties of apples worldwide. However, most of what is grown commercially is limited to a few favorite varieties. Each has its own personality traits: taste, texture, shape and color.

Advantages: Apples are good sources of fiber, magnesium and vitamins A and C.

Selecting your apples: Pick bright-skinned, crisp-looking apples free of bruises and shriveled skin. Apples can be refrigerated up to two weeks or stored for longer periods in a cool, dry, dark and well-ventilated place.

Preparing your apples for today's salad: Start by selecting a good red baking or cooking apple that won't become mushy when sliced. Cut the apple into crescent-shaped wedges then remove the seeds and small tougher core. I prefer to leave the skin on for color.

The second step: Select a tart green or yellow apple for the raw slices. Take the entire apple in hand. Beginning with the bottom, cut across a mandolin slicer to produce paper-thin slices. When sliced so thin, the inner core is palatable. Just tap lightly to release the seeds. Rub with lemon juice to prevent browning.

Preparing the mushrooms: We add a woodsy flavor to the salad with wild mushrooms. Select wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, cepes or their domesticated cousins: Italian field, oyster or portabellas.

Picking your greens: Select your favorite hearty greens like as baby frisee, red oak, Belgian endive and baby mustard greens.

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CARAMELIZED AND CRISP APPLE AND WILD MUSHROOM SALAD

Dressing:

3 cups apple cider

1 cup apple cider vinegar

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

\ teaspoon freshly ground allspice

\ cup extra-virgin olive oil

{ cup freshly snipped chives

Salad:

2 medium red cooking apples, cut into crescent wedges with skin on and tough core trimmed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

\ cup granulated sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

Mushrooms:

1 tablespoon canola or olive oil

2 cloves of garlic sliced paper thin

{ pound wild mushrooms, stems cleaned and cut into large pieces

2 medium tart green apples

4 cups hearty greens torn into bite-size pieces

1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon

1 tablespoon fresh chopped thyme

\ cup Parmesan cheese, shaved paper thin

To make the dressing: In an acid-resistant saucepan, combine the apple cider and apple cider vinegar. Bring to a simmer over high heat and cook until reduced to } cup, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Transfer to a blender. While pureeing, add salt, pepper and allspice. Then drizzle in the olive oil until emulsified. Add half the chives and reserve.

To prepare the apple wedges: In a nonstick skillet, heat the butter over high heat. Add the apple wedges without crowding and cook until well seared, about 3 minutes. Turn, then sprinkle with sugar and a squeeze of lemon. Cook until caramel forms and the apples are tender but not mushy. Transfer the caramelized wedges to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Lightly sprinkle with black pepper and allow to cool.

To prepare the mushrooms: In a large nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and cook 1 minute without browning. Add the mushrooms without crowding and cook until golden, about 5 minutes depending on the variety and size of mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a large bowl.

To prepare the salad: Beginning with the bottom, cut the green apples across a finely set mandolin slicer to produce paper-thin slices with the skin on. The core is palatable when sliced so thin, so simply tap to release the seeds.

Add the greens to the mushrooms. Add the apple wedges and half of the green apple slices. Add part of the dressing and toss. Taste the salad and adjust as necessary with salt, pepper and additional dressing. Add the tarragon, thyme and remaining chives; toss to combine.

To serve: Arrange three green apple slices on four chilled serving plates. Divide and mound the salad in the center of the apple slices. Top with shaved Parmesan and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

397 calories (56 percent from fat), 25 grams fat (7 grams sat. fat), 44 grams carbohydrate, 6 grams protein, 159 mg sodium, 19 mg cholesterol, 156 mg calcium, 8 grams fiber.